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The Consortium of Igp producers (Igp stands for Protected Geographic Indication) has asked for the insertion of the bread of Matera in the Unesco list of immaterial cultural goods of mankind.
texts and photos by Massimiliano Rella
Matera is one of the two provinces of Basilicata, a southern Italian region. It is known as the town of the Sassi, ancient caves, opening on a rock face at different levels, used for centuries as houses by the poorest inhabitants. In Matera, at mealtime, bread is the real protagonist, the main gastronomical product of the town, made following an ancient recipe, modified and improved in the course of centuries. Every town or region in Italy has its own gastronomical symbol: wine for the Chianti territory, lemons for the Amalfi coast, pizza in Naples. Matera has got its bread, the Igp bread of Matera. Igp means Protected Geographic Indication, a legally defined designation, recognized by the European Community: it protects gastronomical products tied to the territory, made following traditional methods and using easily traceable high quality ingredients. For centuries the bread of Matera has been the staff of life for the Sassi inhabitants. It was baked in collective ovens, every family had its own sourdough and so in each house bread had a unique taste. Igp Bread of Matera is a local specialty, and the Consortium of producers has asked Unesco to insert it in the list of Italian immaterial cultural goods.
The bread of Matera has a dark, crispy crust, while the inside is soft and light. It is made in two different shapes: like a croissant, with more crust, or like a high, softer loaf. Before baking, three cuts are made on the upper side of the loaves, to prevent the formation of air bubbles. A secret for the high quality of the bread of Matera is the use of natural sourdough, which is 40% of the total dough. The remaining 60% consists of durum wheat meal, exclusively produced in Basilicata. Leaven is made keeping fresh fruit in water, so as to favor the development of microorganisms, essential for bread rising. To prepare the first dough small quantities of water and flour are used, later more water and flour are added. When the season changes, leaven is renewed, starting with a small amount, preserved from the previous one. The dough is left to rest for almost 2 hours, so that microorganisms can start the chemical process making the bread very soft and light. Then the dough is shaped to form round loaves with three cuts on the upper side. Finally they are slowly baked, for 5 - 6 hours in a wood oven.
Among the main bakeries in Matera Panificio Cifarelli is a traditional bakery founded in 1947 (via Istria 17, www.panificiocifarelli.it). In Matera, bread is also an ingredient for several local recipes. They can be tasted at Lucanerie, one of the best restaurants in town (via Santo Stefano 61, tel 0835.332133, tasting menu 45). We recommend pancotto con rape (bread soup with turnips) or special cavatelli (typical pasta with peppers, ricotta cheese and fried bread crumbs). You can spend the night at the attractive Sassi Hotel, 35 rooms set at six different levels, in the remodeled Sassi caves (www.hotelsassi.it). |
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