texts by Elena Benedetti

anchovies from the Mar Ligure

Anchovies are a typical variety of fish in the Mar Ligure. Salted anchovies from Liguria are protected by a legally defined European designation, the Igp, or Protected Geographic Indication. In fact, the high quality of the "Salted anchovies from the Mar Ligure" depends on their geographic origin. This fish is caught along the coast of Liguria, in the four provinces of La Spezia, Genua, Savona and Imperia. According to the rules regulating the Igp, anchovies’ night fishing can take place only between April and the middle of October, the period when the fish reach sexual maturity and a size between 12 and 20 cm. The anchovies to be salted are then put in wooden crates. The salting process must start within 12 hours and it lasts 24 hours at the most. After that, the anchovies are cleaned and put in wooden barrels with sea salt between layers. Heavy weight are set on the casks to exert a constant pressure, necessary for the maturing and fermentation of the fish (lasting between 40 and 50 days). Finally the salted anchovies are put in cylindrical glass jars (called “arbanelle”) to be sold. Every step of this process, which is hand-made and on a small scale, is controlled to guarantee the final product’s certified origin.

fishing boats at the Cinque Terre

Since ancient times salted anchovies have been a staple product for the people of Liguria. They are an important element of the region’s gastronomic culture, also thanks to the mild winter climate, favoring a natural maturing process. The salted anchovies from the Mar Ligure have a compact, soft flesh, pink or light brownish in color and with a savory, dainty taste. They are an ideal starter, with good extra-virgin olive oil, garlic and a pinch of parsley and oregano.

the colorful village of Camogli

Anchovies have always been called “pan do mâ” (meaning “sea bread” in Liguria’s dialect) both because they are the main food for predatory fish at sea and because they are among the most popular fish of the region, present in quite a number of local recipes. In the restaurants we can taste fried or marinated anchovies the “bagnun” (a creamy soup of tomatoes, vegetables and anchovies, served with small pieces of toasted bread), the anchovy pie (a specialty of Camogli) and traditional pasta with anchovy sauce. For a menu based on fish, we recommend the Locanda delle Tamerici (menu € 85 www.locandadelletamerici.com) and Paolo and Barbara, at Sanremo, with a supply of fresh fish twice a day (bill € 90  www.paolobarbara.it). Finally, if you want to stop for a longer stay between Montecarlo and Portofino, you can choose La Meridiana Relais & Chateaux (www.lameridiana.eu) with elegant rooms and suites, a 18-hole golf club and a relaxing atmosphere, just a few steps from the sea.